Desert Luxe - Riyadh to AlUla Road Trip

Riyadh to AlUla in Ramadan: How One Road Trip Became Unforgettable

Last March, during Ramadan, two of my closest friends and I packed the car in Riyadh and headed north for a much-needed escape. What began as a simple Ramadan road trip to AlUla quickly unravelled into something far more memorable — a mix of quiet luxury, unexpected weather theatrics and those small desert coincidences that make Saudi life feel like a story unfolding in real time.

Thirteen hours of open road, discreet coffee stops and playlist therapy later, we finally rolled into AlUla — and straight into a five-star surprise.

The “Accidental” Banyan Tree

We’d booked what we thought was a simple tented resort on Booking.com. Turns out, it was THE Banyan Tree AlUla.

Ramadan rates had quietly halved, and we’d lucked into luxury. Our sensible little Ramadan road trip to AlUla had just upgraded itself.

Cue golf buggies, a swimming pool carved into the rock, desert breezes and à la carte breakfasts served by flirty waiters. White Lotus: Saudi Edition — and we were absolutely here for it.

Moments before disaster...

Ashar Valley Magic

After a 12-hour drive, the idea of venturing out again for dinner felt heroic, so we stayed put and ate in the hotel’s iftar tent. It started beautifully — lanterns, laughter, the hum of distant prayer — until a sudden gust sent a string of fairy lights crashing onto Jane’s head.

The staff shifted awkwardly and tried to pretend nothing had happened, until we finally caught the attention of the head of hospitality. To their credit, amends were made the following evening with coffee and cakes on the terrace — where, by sheer coincidence, we ran into neighbours from our Riyadh compound who were staying nearby.

A small-world moment in a very big desert.

Bit blowy

Storm Walk in the Valley

The next morning, Ashar Valley proved exactly why it graces every AlUla postcard. Red sandstone cliffs rose on either side; wind whipped through the gorge as we wandered towards Maraya.

Then the storm rolled in.

We turned back, half-laughing, half-screaming, walking backwards into the wind like desert crabs. It was the kind of moment that defines any good Ramadan road trip to AlUla — unglamorous, hilarious and unforgettable.

By the time we stumbled back into the resort, hair wild and faces glowing, the sky had shifted to a soft apricot stillness.

Hegra by Vintage Land Rover

The following day we joined the vintage Land Rover tour of Hegra — Saudi’s answer to Petra. Ramadan had emptied the crowds; it was just us, the guide and a silence so deep it felt almost sacred.

Our guide fielded our endless questions with saintly patience while the sandstone tombs glowed burnished orange in the late light. You don’t realise how powerful stillness can feel until you’re standing in the middle of it.

Old Town AlUla: Desert Disney Done Well

Old Town has been polished to perfection — part living-museum, part Diriyah, entirely charming. Cobbled lanes, ornate metal grilles over air-con units, cafés without customers (thank you, Ramadan).

One afternoon we wandered along the Oasis Trail, weaving between palms and stopping to say hello to a couple of wandering goats. It was peaceful, green, and felt a world away from the sandstone drama of Ashar Valley — and honestly, we couldn’t wait to get back to the Banyan Tree and sink into that hush again. There’s something about Ashar Valley that feels like an exhale. And that was just Part One. From AlUla we drove on to Medina and then back to Riyadh, gathering more kilometres, more caffeine stops and more stories for the next instalment.

Stay Here

Ashar Tented Resort (Banyan Tree AlUla) — Ramadan rates make luxury possible. Search Ashar Tented Resort on Booking.com for the secret deal. Shhh!

Insider Tip

Go in Ramadan. It’s quieter, cooler and half the price. The breakfasts alone justify the drive. And that was just Part One. From AlUla we drove on to Medina and then back to Riyadh, gathering more kilometres, more caffeine stops and more stories for the next instalment.