AlUla to Medina Drive: Camels, Lava and the Ramadan Road South
- Sarah Green
- Dec 10, 2025
- 4 min read
What the AlUla to Medina Drive Actually Looks Like
Leaving AlUla, the landscape changes almost immediately. The AlUla to Medina drive begins with a sweep of dark volcanic terrain — the leftover scars of the Harrat Khaybar lava field. It’s black, jagged and strangely beautiful, a reminder that this part of Saudi sits on a very geologically active past.
It’s a bit like driving through North Wales if someone had removed the greenery and dialled everything up to “apocalyptic.” My friends were still asking where the camels were. We’d seen none. So, in the spirit of road-trip democracy, we went looking.
Camel-Spotting in the Lava Fields
A few camels appeared on the horizon — slow, deliberate shapes against the black rock. We pulled over, walked carefully towards them, and tried not to look like the tourists we obviously were. A herder rose out of what looked like a pile of scrap metal and it was giving Star Wars vibes , gave us a polite wave, and went back to his day.
It was one of the more accidental, slightly surreal moments of the AlUla to Medina drive — the sort you can’t plan, and probably couldn’t recreate if you tried.
Elephant Rock and a Mild Moment of Panic
Before leaving AlUla completely, we stopped at Elephant Rock. It’s enormous and impressive in that understated Saudi way — no crowds, no fuss, just you and a giant piece of geology.
In an attempt to get a better angle, I drifted slightly off-road, forgetting that this is heavily policed territory. The car sank a little. Right beside a sign shouting NO OFF-ROADING – HEAVY FINES APPLY.
We reversed out, dignity more or less intact. Lesson learned. Again.
Why the AlUla to Medina Drive Changes Completely After 45 Minutes
Once you leave the volcanic ridge behind, the world flattens out. The road becomes long, straight and beige — the kind of landscape where time moves differently. Petrol stations appear every so often, usually accompanied by a lone shop selling crisps, Vimto and not much else.
It’s hypnotic in a way that only the desert can be. And then, almost without warning, Medina rises up ahead — pale, ordered and calmer than any city has a right to be.
Arrival in Medina
Medina has an immediate shift in atmosphere. It feels gentler, greener, and far more structured than Riyadh. White buildings. Lattice balconies. Palms everywhere. My friends took one look and said, “This is what we thought Riyadh would look like.”
Geographically, it makes sense. Riyadh sits high on the dry Najd Plateau; Medina lies in a basin historically fed by wells and oases. It’s the difference between a city that grew from desert trade routes and one that grew from community and cultivation.
We arrived just before iftar, and within minutes strangers were offering us dates and water. It’s one of the lovely consistencies of Ramadan in Saudi — the generosity is immediate and unforced.
The Evening Outside the Prophet’s Mosque
We stayed at the Assaafa Hotel — clean, simple, functional. Premier Inn energy, if Premier Inn had a view of minarets.
A friend suggested we wear abayas to blend in. We tried. Realistically, we weren’t blending in, but at least we weren’t actively standing out. The scarves kept slipping, the polyester trapped heat like a greenhouse, and we spent a lot of the evening quietly faffing.
We didn’t go inside the Prophet’s Mosque because we were not allowed, but even from outside it’s extraordinary. Thousands gathered for prayer, moving as one. The sound, the scale, the stillness — it’s an experience you don’t forget.
Afterwards the city erupted into life: families sharing meals on kerbs, children darting between picnic blankets, the smell of cardamom drifting across the street. We ended up eating on the top floor in a shiny new mall with a view of the museum courtyard. Ordinary food (Shwarma House meh), unforgettable evening.
How Long the AlUla to Medina Drive Really Takes
The next morning, we began the long stretch back to Riyadh:
AlUla → Medina: ~330 km (4 hours)
Medina → Riyadh: ~850 km (8 hours)
The drive back was uneventful in the best way. Big roads, clear skies, strong crosswinds, and a truck stop halfway that sold surprisingly good coffee and Cinnabons. We arrived home dusty, tired and victorious!
Where We Stayed
Ashar Tented Resort (Banyan Tree AlUla) — unexpectedly perfect.
Assaafa Hotel, Medina — clean, central, and exactly what we needed.
Quick Tips for the AlUla to Medina Drive
Fill up before leaving any major town — petrol stations get sparse.
November–March is ideal; Ramadan offers fewer crowds and cheaper hotels.
Expect strong crosswinds in open areas.
Cover shoulders and dress modestly in Medina — respectful, low-key attire makes life easier.
Why This Drive Stays With You
The AlUla to Medina drive shows how dramatically Saudi shifts in tone, terrain and atmosphere. One minute you’re in a volcanic wasteland, the next in a holy city full of warmth and calm.
It’s long, occasionally ridiculous, and entirely worth the miles.
Missed Part 1? ← Read Desert Luxe: Riyadh to AlUla Road Trip
Comments