AlUla Travel Guide: How to Plan a Trip from Riyadh Without Spending a Fortune
- Sarah Green
- Nov 1, 2023
- 6 min read
Updated: Mar 12
In February 2023 we took a trip to AlUla from Riyadh, approximately 1,000 kilometres away. Having recently purchased our new car and with a few extra days of holiday thanks to the February bank holiday, it felt like the perfect excuse to get on the road and explore our new country. This AlUla travel guide shares what we learned along the way — from the long desert drive to finding affordable places to stay.
AlUla is one of the big flagship tourist destinations that Saudi Arabia has to offer and whenever I see images posted on Instagram, it looks so glamorous and well, expensive to visit.
But what about the other side of AlUla - for the regular tourist, the one that doesn't want to drop thousands of SAR on a night in an expensive hotel and have all the private guides and all the helicopters on hand?
Is this even possible?
Planning Your AlUla Travel Guide from Riyadh
We did the distance in one day - leaving around 5 am and arriving just in time for sundowners at 6 pm. One long drive but visually so interesting, not what I expected. It's best to view it as two stretches - Riyadh - Hail and then Hail - Al Ula. There are plenty of petrol stations on the way to Hail but make sure you have a full tank and plenty of snacks and water before departing from Hail to Al Ula because I don't remember seeing many petrol stations once we had left Hail. We took our own food and just pulled up for a quick pee stop and picnic on the go. Between Riyadh and Hail there was plenty of opportunity to grab food at the petrol stations. It was not a time for leisurely lunches - we were on a mission to get there before it got dark.
Petrol station toilets were ... well... interesting. Most were really clean but think hole-in-the- floor jobs. And then once you were past Hail, there were no official toilets. Think hole-in-the-sand jobs.
Once we were passed Hail the roads were quiet with the most challenging things to get around being the MASSIVE mobile homes/portacabins on their way up to NEOM. Very wide units. But the roads were empty and the road surfaces were in great condition.
If you aren't driving then you can fly to Jeddah and rent a car or get the bus if you aren't in a hurry. AlUla has its own small airport so check out whether you can fly direct. Having a car in AlUla (preferably a 4x4) means you have total freedom - public transport isn't established yet and Uber isn't going to take you into the desert for some random acts of offroading. Finding a tour to join is the easiest option if you don't have a car.
Finding Accommodation
AlUla is blossoming on the tourist map, and while it's cradling a variety of accommodations, it's still just waking up to its potential. For those with a taste for the finer things, Habitas Alula and Banyan Tree stand as beacons of luxury. But keep your eyes peeled, as fresh options are sprouting up regularly. Forward-thinking will reward you with some unique stays—our own hunt on booking.com unearthed a trove of charming 'farm stays.' These gems, often booked out due to overlapping events, offer a rustic-chic glamping experience nestled in date farms. Imagine a private oasis, walled off for peace of mind, complete with tents with decent beds and proper mattresses and clean bedding, outdoor BBQs, and a basic one-story building housing your essentials. It's a different kettle of fish compared to European self-catering standards, yet what might occasionally lack in amenities is more than compensated by the warmth of Saudi hospitality, ever eager to enhance your stay.
For a sneak peek into this pastoral paradise, check out the video below to see what a farm stay looks and feels like.
What To Do When You Get There....
We travelled when there was an ultra running festival and an upcoming music festival happening so there was a lot going on and accommodation was pretty booked up.
There is plenty to do that is free and amazing. Most AlUla travel guides focus heavily on Hegra and luxury resorts, but there is so much more to explore once you arrive.
Here are four big takeaways that are useful to know when you are planning your trip:
Book your trips to Hegra as much in advance as possible, tours are limited and if you are there when they have events happening you will miss out. We wanted to go on the landrover tours but it was all booked out (sad face). This is a great resource https://www.experiencealula.com/en/plan-your-trip/what-to-do
There is plenty to do that is free and amazing. Most AlUla travel guides focus heavily on Hegra and luxury resorts, but there is so much more to explore once you arrive.
Having a 4 x 4 is a must to enjoy these places.
Visit the Tourist office when you get there - sometimes it's just nice to chat with someone and they are really helpful (especially if you have been so busy and have had no time to book anything!)
Top places to visit
We were there for three days which was no time at all. Here are the top 5 places that are top of our list:
AlUla’s Old Town - a beautiful place to wander around, tastefully restored and free; they have an authentic heritage design Harvey Nicks and Dunken Doughnuts!
Jabal AlFil (Elephant Rock) - great location to go off-road and check out all the beautiful camels!
Harrat viewpoint for sunset - we were a bit rushed getting here because the sun was almost set after driving all the way from Riyadh. There was live music, bean bags to chill out on, a live DJ and a restaurant and cafe. Definitely could have spent more time here.
Hegra - we missed the opportunity to book here but it's the headline activity at Al Ula
Shelal Cafe - a cool place to go for coffee and cake or breakfast; you pay a small entrance fee and weave through the rocks (think the entrance to Petra) and you arrive at a beautiful cafe with rugs on the floor.
So there you have it - we loved our visit to AlUla and would go back in a heartbeat. The slightly humid temperature, light, rocks, lush greenery just made it so special. You know when you visit somewhere and it just has a beautiful spiritual vibe - well that is AlUla for me. We could easily spend a week there and next time we will book ahead and also check out some of the amazing trail walking the area has to offer. And maybe a bit of wild camping too.
A Return Trip to AlUla During Ramadan
Two years after our first visit, I returned to AlUla during Ramadan with two close friends for another road trip from Riyadh. The experience felt completely different — quieter, windier, and unexpectedly luxurious thanks to a last-minute stay at the Banyan Tree in Ashar Valley.
If you're curious what AlUla feels like during Ramadan, you can read the story of that trip here:
Questions People Ask About Visiting AlUla
How far is AlUla from Riyadh?
AlUla is around 1,000 km from Riyadh and the drive typically takes 10–12 hours depending on stops. Most travellers split the journey via Hail, which makes the long desert drive more manageable.
Do you need a 4x4 to visit AlUla?
A 4x4 is highly recommended if you want to explore beyond the main town. Many of the most beautiful viewpoints, desert valleys, and camel-filled landscapes sit off the main roads and are much easier to reach with a capable vehicle.
Can you visit AlUla on a budget?
Yes. While AlUla is known for luxury resorts like Habitas and Banyan Tree, there are also farm stays, guesthouses and small apartments that offer much more affordable options. Many of the most spectacular landscapes and viewpoints are free to visit.
What are the must-see places in AlUla?
First-time visitors should try to see Hegra (Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage site), AlUla Old Town, Elephant Rock (Jabal AlFil), and the Harrat Viewpoint for sunset. There are also excellent desert trails, cafes tucked into the rocks, and plenty of scenic drives.
How many days should you spend in AlUla?
Ideally 3–4 days. This gives you time to visit Hegra, explore Old Town, watch the sunset at Harrat Viewpoint, and take at least one off-road desert adventure.
When is the best time of year to visit AlUla?
If you’re planning a trip using this AlUla travel guide, timing your visit can make a big difference to the experience.
October to March is widely considered the best time to visit. Temperatures are comfortable for exploring the desert landscapes, and this is when AlUla’s main tourism season comes alive with winter festivals, concerts, art events and endurance races across the region.
Summer (June–September) is extremely hot, with daytime temperatures often climbing well above 40°C. That said, it is also the quietest time to visit, and accommodation can sometimes be easier to find.
Ramadan offers a completely different atmosphere. The pace of life slows, evenings feel particularly special around iftar, and visitor numbers tend to drop. However, some restaurants, tours and attractions may operate on reduced or adjusted schedules during daylight hours.
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