Paris with Kids by Train: Why We Skipped Disneyland Hotels and Stayed in the City

We debated it. Stay in Disneyland Paris for convenience? Or stick to the city for atmosphere, adventure, and better train connections? In the end, the city won—and I’m so glad it did.

We were in and out of Gare du Nord on the Eurostar and needed easy access to Gare de l’Est for our trip to Disney, so we chose a little two-star place called Hotel Little Regina. Affordable. Clean. Perfect location. Job done.

I’ll be honest—arriving in Paris was a bit of a sensory slap. We’d been warned.

• The South African optician who practically begged me not to let go of my daughter in public.

• My Lebanese neighbour who solemnly told me Paris wasn’t what it used to be.

• Warnings about pickpockets, loiterers, general grime.

And yes, the train stations do still smell like urine (they always did, let’s be fair). Yes, there were people lingering around the exits. Yes, I clutched my children a bit tighter than usual. But honestly? The chaos is part of the charm. (Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose, as they say.)

We arrived safely, dumped our bags, and set off to explore. In the rain, naturally.

Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis and Pesto Hunts

Our first walk took us down Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, one of those brilliant Parisian streets that’s full of noise and colour and life. If Steve had been with me, we’d have been hopping from wine bar to cocktail lounge. But this was a solo-parenting mission—so instead, I found myself on a thrilling hunt for pesto and pasta for our DIY hotel dinner. Livin’ the dream.

Art and Audio Tours at the Musée d’Orsay

Despite the drizzle, we wandered the Seine and headed to the Musée d’Orsay. We didn’t pre-book, and there were no queues—my kind of museum experience. We grabbed audio guides (which honestly could’ve done with a bit more storytelling flair) and managed to see a decent chunk of the collection before the kids ran out of steam.

Henry insisted we head upstairs to see “the big boys"—Monet, Degas, Van Gogh—before they both forcibly ejected me from the premises. We rounded off the day with a walk through the Jardin des Tuileries, clutching hot chocolates and staring at the massive Olympic balloon sculpture still standing from last year’s games. Wet, cold, but magical.

Top Tip: Paris Métro Photo Pass

We got the 4-day Paris Métro pass (the one where you need a passport photo). I probably didn’t need it—my step count hit 20,000 most days—but it was great to have that freedom. In hindsight, a carnet of 10 tickets might’ve been cheaper. Still, no regrets.

Sunset on the Eiffel Tower (and Sparkles!)

Friday’s big plan was the Eiffel Tower. I’d checked the weather and booked a sunset slot with walking tickets to the second floor. It was a first for us—sweaty, yes, but also incredibly fun. We waited under the giant legs for the sparkle show as the sun dipped below the skyline. Utterly memorable. We didn’t get home till 11pm and nobody minded.

Saturday: Croissants, Swim Plans & a Bit of a Flop

Saturday was meant to be chill before our Disneyland day. I didn’t book anything and we still ended up walking 20,000 steps. We queued at Mamiche, a local cult bakery, for the flakiest croissants and ham-baguette perfection, then wandered towards the Seine for a swim.

Except… the swim zone was closed. Rain the previous days meant unsafe levels of pollution. So instead we caught a bus to Notre Dame, snapped some obligatory silly photos, staggered past the Pompidou Centre, and flopped back at the hotel.

There was live music everywhere. Paris Plages along the Seine. Olympic installations. It felt like the city was still in party mode. I didn’t want to leave—but the kids had called time. They rule.

Fashion Meets Weird: Palais Galliera

On our final afternoon, we dipped into the Palais Galliera for the Rick Owens exhibition. Darcy is obsessed with fashion and this felt like a Paris Mum Moment. Very cool, very edgy—but also very dark. If you know, you know. Luckily the interactive “fashion through the ages” expo downstairs was a bit more family-friendly. Darcy was in heaven.

What I’d Do Differently?

Honestly? Nothing.I’d still base ourselves in the city. I’d still keep the itinerary light. I’d still let Paris surprise us.

Paris Tips for Rail Travellers with Kids

• Stay near the major stations: Gare du Nord or Gare de l’Est makes hopping around easy.

• Don’t overbook: Leave room for spontaneity and weather changes.

• Be realistic at museums: You probably won’t see everything—and that’s okay.

• Snacks save the day: Croissants are your friend.

• Even rainy Paris is romantic: Lean into it.

What’s Next in the Series?

Next stop: Disneyland Paris in a day—yes, we did the whole thing in 12 hours. Here’s how we made it magical (and survived).

Read more about our rail journey through Europe here